7-Day Itinerary for Croatia, Montenegro & Bosnia

A Road Trip Through the Balkans

I’ve always dreamed of going to Croatia, and with Dana unsure whether she could swing a big adventure this year, I booked a trip with a friend from Boston. Little did I know at the time that this would be my last big adventure before my next big adventure—becoming a mom. I was 12 weeks pregnant on this trip (and Dana was none too happy that I accidentally went on my last pre-baby friend adventure with someone else. Sorry, Daner!).

Day 1: Travel to Dubrovnik, Croatia

After a long travel day with an overnight flight to Dublin and a morning flight to Croatia, we made it to Dubrovnik and jumped in an Uber to our hotel. We were staying within the famous city walls at the Stradun View En Suite Rooms & Studio, but didn’t think about the fact that we wouldn’t be able to drive directly to our door. After a bit of wandering, suitcase-dragging over old cobblestones, and failed address decoding, we eventually found our spot—cute, tiny, and perfectly located (but also very noisy at night - these travel earplugs were put to use!).

Our Uber driver recommended dinner at Konoba Dubrava, a restaurant outside the city walls that prepares a traditional Croatian meal of meat and octopus cooked under a clay bell (we had no idea what that meant, but were immediately intrigued). We made a reservation, planned our afternoon around it, and made our way to the Dubrovnik Cable Car for sweeping views of the Adriatic. We sipped wine (well, a mocktail for me) at the Panorama Restaurant at the top and soaked in the iconic red rooftops and blue waters of Dubrovnik.

Dinner at Konoba Dubrava was cozy, authentic, and delicious. We were the only English speakers in the place (a good sign!).  Of course, I wanted to see the cooking process, so Joanna asked our server if we could peek into the kitchen. He excitedly took us back and gave us a little tour of the (very hot and steamy) grills and showed us how they cook with hot coals and clay bells.

At this point, we were exhausted, so it was time to head home and get some sleep. A perfect first day

Day 2: Dubrovnik Adventures

We hit the Old Town Walls right when they opened at 8 AM to beat the heat and the crowds. Pro tip: grab the Dubrovnik Pass—it includes entry to the walls, Fort Lovrijenac (a great little hike), and more. Going early was the right call because there is no shade. The views are stunning and it’s such a unique experience. It fully lived up to my expectations.

After walking the walls, we hopped on the 15-minute ferry to Lokrum Island. It’s a world away from the hustle and bustle of Dubruvnik (and another filming location for Game of Thrones). We stuck our feet in the saltwater “Dead Sea,” wandered rocky beaches, and even spotted wild peacocks along the trails. It was a lovely way to spend an afternoon. There are a lot of ways to see Lokrum Island, but we just wandered on our own.

We couldn’t leave Dubrovnik without experiencing one of the famous cave bars so we finished our jam packed day at Cave Bar More, an oceanfront bar literally carved into a cliffside cave. We ate dinner on the water and then headed inside the cave for post-dinner drinks. I wasn’t in love with their mocktail options but the location was unique!

Day 3: Kotor, Montenegro

Time to hit the road! We picked up our rental car (check out Discover Cars, a third party service with good deals on car rentals). Starting the rental today helped avoid parking headaches in Dubrovnik. It was really easy to get around Dubrovnik by Uber so we were pretty happy with this decision.  It was a lovely 2-hour drive to Kotor, Montenegro. Make sure to bring your international driver’s permit for this leg (you can get it at AAA). I, of course, completely forgot about this part and did not get an international drivers license before the trip. Joanna, luckily, did, so she did all of the driving in Montenegro and Croatia, where an international driver’s license is required.  

Once again, we struggled to find the exact location of our hotel, Guest House Anita, which we finally realized was tucked back a little from the street. The parking was a bit challenging, but we couldn’t have been happier with our tiny little home away from home for the night. When I say tiny, I mean tiny (you couldn’t even turn around in the handheld shower), but our patio had the most amazing view of the water.

Our main activity was the climb up the San Giovanni Fortress—1,355 steps to panoramic views of Kotor Bay. A preggo and an asthmatic, let’s just say we took it slow. But it was worth every step! The views were unbelievable and the ruins at the top were fun to explore. Afterward, we explored the charming streets of Old Town and had a slow evening eating dinner on the water and soaking in the bay views.

Day 4: Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Just a little goat encounter on the drive from Montenegro to Bosnia

Today was our longest drive day—and the most adventurous…accidentally. The road to Mostar took us across the border into Bosnia, with an unplanned detour on a rocky mountain road. Let’s just say: if you miss a turn and your GPS reroutes you up a curvy mountain, turn around. But if you don’t, and you decide to take the tiny, curvy mountain road, when the pavement ends and you get to a rocky road, you should turn around then. If you still don’t and choose to try the 10-kilometer drive on a rocky road on the side of a mountain in a Corolla and get to a washed-out bridge, that’s when you call it and finally turn around. Just a little 2-hour detour, but we made it back on pavement - but not without getting stuck behind a herd of goats first.

Eventually, we made it to Bosnia. You better believe Joanna pulled over as soon as we crossed the border and handed me the keys. She was a trooper getting us through our accidental detour unscathed, so now it was my turn to drive for a while! Turns out, even when you follow the GPS in Bosnia, you hit a lot of dirt roads. Maybe a Corolla wasn’t the best car for this adventure…

The drive through Bosnia was really enlightening. We would come across new developments next to war-torn towns. The recent and difficult history is still very much on display and a reminder of the impact on its people. We finally made it to Mostar, after stopping for some traditional Bosnian food for lunch. The Old Bridge (Stari Most) is stunning, and the surrounding area is full of cozy cafes, food stalls, and local artisans. It was a little rainy and the bridge was slippery to walk over, but we made it and then wandered around the little shops. It’s worth spending a night here if you want to travel more leisurely. I wish we’d had a bit more time to explore.

The iconic and beautiful Stari Most bridge

Then we continued on to Croatia , driving well into the night, and checked into Plitvice Villa Verde to prep for tomorrow’s waterfall adventure. With very little open because we got there so late, we found a pizza place across the street for a quick dinner before it was off to bed.

Day 5: Plitvice Lakes & Split

We started our morning with breakfast at the hotel and then headed to Plitvice Lakes National Park (click here for tour options for the national park). It is one of those places that doesn’t seem real. Crystal-clear lakes, cascading waterfalls, and wooden walkways that make you feel like you’re in a fairytale. We started early at Entrance 1 and picked a trail to follow. There are a few different options depending on how much time you want to spend in the park. Wear waterproof hiking shoes and comfortable clothing because you are very likely going to get wet. This really was one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen.

We loved the wine and atmosphere at Rak Winery on the drive from Plitvice Lakes National Park to Split.

After a few hours of hiking, we made our way to Split, with a wine tasting stop at Rak Winery along the way. Family-run and full of charm—highly recommend! Joanna ordered a full wine tasting (why not with a built in designated driver!). When I told our server, who turned out to be the owner and we later learned lived on the property, that I was pregnant, he brought me my own glass so that I could at least have a little sip of each wine to try. I brought a bottle home with me to enjoy after the baby is born!

We arrived in Split, wandered the Old Town, and had a delicious dinner at Uje Oil Bar before crashing at Villa Ana Split.

Day 6: Day Trip to Brac Island

We wanted to spend our last day on an island and Brac Island seemed like the perfect option for a day trip. We took the 45-minute ferry and rented a car to explore. We got lucky and got the last automatic car on the island so you might want to book your rental car ahead if this is your plan. It was definitely the best way to see the island since it’s pretty big and the bus would not have been convenient. Plus, we could stop wherever we wanted, including a tiny olive oil farm we came across on our drive. We made our way across the island with gorgeous sea views on the drive and visited Stina Winery in Bol, where we enjoyed a tasting and gorgeous views.

We walked the boardwalk to Zlatni Rat Beach and then drove up to Vidova Gora, the highest point in the Adriatic Sea. It’s hikeable too if you have more time! It would have been lovely and relaxing to spend a night on Brac Island so I would highly recommend it if you have some extra time in your itinerary.

We took the ferry back to Split and toasted our last night with dinner at Zinfandel Food & Wine Bar in the Old Town. And of course, ended our night with gelato – which had become a nightly ritual by this point. Maybe I couldn’t drink all the Croatian wine I had been dreaming of, but you better believe I made up for it in gelato!

Day 7: Travel Home

Our final morning was spent savoring one last cappuccino at a waterfront café before heading to the airport and saying goodbye to this incredible corner of the world.

Post may include affiliate links. As an affiliate for Amazon and others, we earn from qualifying purchases. It doesn’t change the price for you, but it helps us fund this blog we love so much!

---

More stories about our international travels